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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2008-02-09, 8:31am
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Default Gold decorations on beads?

I have been seeing people "drawing" with what looks like gold on beads. I think they have to re-anneal them to get the gold to stay - does anyone have any information on that process? It's bead-utiful!

Thanks!

Daggy
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  #2  
Old 2008-02-09, 8:40am
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My guess is that they're using Kugler Iris Gold cane. It produces the most beautiful gold color when reduced! It does have a COE of 96 and it is quiet pricey at $63/lb.

http://www.hotglasscolor.com/index.a...OD&ProdID=1221

Candy
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  #3  
Old 2008-02-09, 9:05am
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Or do you mean the high fire gold decals?
butterflies and that kind of thing I have seen in the show and tell recently, you buy them from delphi glass, you do need to refire them after applying the decals I think.
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Old 2008-02-09, 9:18am
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If I am correct she's not talking about the decals but the high-fire gold paint. Claudia just showed some of her beads in the showthread last thursday,I think these are the ones you mean?





If they are you might want to ask Claudia herself how she did them, her beads are awesome. Here's her website link:http://www.glasting.com/
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  #5  
Old 2008-02-09, 9:58am
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Those are stunning, I really must make time to trawl the show and tell, those are really really striking.
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  #6  
Old 2008-02-09, 10:09am
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This might be what you're looking for.

http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm...emSYSid=190333
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Old 2008-02-09, 10:46am
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I've been using the gold decals and I have also acquired the gold liquid and special pens to do the type of thing that is shown above.

Either method does require refiring your beads. You must make sure that the gold has permanently bonded with the glass. This can be tested by using an ordinary pencil eraser on the gold after refiring. If the gold rubs off the gold is not bonded.

Bullseye works best for this as most beads won't slump at the firing temperatures. I have found for the gold decals that 30 minutes at 1180 to 1200 degrees work best.

I have just started working with the liquid gold so I don't know the optimum temperature for that yet. The liquid gold that I have is Hanovia. However, that has been discontinued and I don't know what the best substitute is for it yet. Most ceramic supply places carry it as does places like Mister Art. It does contain real gold and is about $32.00 for a small 1 gram bottle. (Which is why I haven't tested it much yet - it is expensive.)

There is a German lampworking magazine that has an article on how to use the gold paint. I have it. You can purchase it from Macolm at Artco. I forget which issue it is but he only has four different ones. Mine is buried someplace at the moment. It is written in German but it's pretty easy to understand things from the pics (although I can understand written German to some extent).

Otherwise, there isn't much to it other than a willingness to experiment
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Old 2008-02-09, 11:03am
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Here's a couple of pics of glass with the decals:

Lauscha:




ASK104:




Bullseye:




Bullseye:




Lauscha:




Bullseye (blown vessel):

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Old 2008-02-09, 11:30am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzanne View Post
If I am correct she's not talking about the decals but the high-fire gold paint. Claudia just showed some of her beads in the showthread last thursday,I think these are the ones you mean?





If they are you might want to ask Claudia herself how she did them, her beads are awesome. Here's her website link:http://www.glasting.com/
Those are EXACTLY the ones - they knock my socks off. Maybe I'll ask - I hope I don't offend her by asking!
Thanks to everyone to responded. Those decals are TDF - may have to try those as well.

Now....where's my lottery ticket????



Daggy
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  #10  
Old 2008-02-09, 11:40am
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Hanovia has been discontinued but there is a substitute.

http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subc...d=162&scid=469
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Old 2008-02-09, 11:49am
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I just ordered some of these because I want the silver luster.

http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subc...=162&scid=1677
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Old 2008-02-09, 12:01pm
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Mary Beth those are absolutely stunning!

daggy I don't think she will be offended if you ask her if she wants to share how she did it, there's only one way to find out but she's very sweet.
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  #13  
Old 2008-02-09, 12:54pm
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I went ahead and emailed Claudia about them (I also thought they were gorgeous), so if and when she replies I'll post the reply.
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Old 2008-02-09, 1:08pm
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I came across liquid gold just the other night, at Sundance Glass. Here is the product list, so scroll down to gold products. xiola
http://www.sundanceglass.com/supplies.htm
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  #15  
Old 2008-02-09, 1:17pm
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Thanks, Suzanne!





Quote:
Originally Posted by lldesigns View Post
I just ordered some of these because I want the silver luster.

http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subc...=162&scid=1677

Thanks for this link! I've been looking for the platinum. These other liquid golds are much less expensive than the Hanovia!
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Old 2008-02-09, 1:24pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lldesigns View Post
I just ordered some of these because I want the silver luster.

http://www.nationalartcraft.com/subc...=162&scid=1677
Awesome!

Thanks so much Laurie! I must have some of this!!!! MUST..... HAVE..... BOTH....GOLDS!!!!! Well, I feel my wallet getting thinner as we speak!!!

DeAnne in CA
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  #17  
Old 2008-02-09, 9:50pm
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I have been using gold and platinum on my glass for years.

I have found that Reusche AKA Hanovia Gold has a tendency to tarnish over time. It does not retain it's shiny gold color after it is fired.
The nice gold color lasts about 2 years.
Don't got me wrong, it still looks great, but is slightly tarnished.Kind of coppery.

Yes, Reusche did get the gold back in stock, but they had to buy large quantity from Germany. So you have to factor in the price of gold and the Euro.
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Old 2008-02-10, 2:55am
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The beads with the gold are beautiful but I was wondering if someone could tell me where I might find info on getting a pen, or paints that are black, a nice opaque black that I could use to do a fine line drawing on glass, I want to do a drawing for a large piece for my bathroom.

I also have no idea how to fire it as far as temperatures. I have a programed Fusebox II, an Aim that I have never used with a pyrometer, and an EvenHeat fuse box, also new never used, (saving for PMC), with a dial controller.

I'm sure I can figure out the kilns, I just need some pointers in the right direction.

Thanks
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Old 2008-02-10, 7:53am
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Make sure that your kiln has proper ventilation or else you are going to wind up with "foggy" spots on your gold.
Also--very important -- do not breathe on fumes while running the kiln! Ask for the data sheet when you order your gold.
This is not something to be casual about!
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  #20  
Old 2008-02-10, 2:03pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starrr View Post
The beads with the gold are beautiful but I was wondering if someone could tell me where I might find info on getting a pen, or paints that are black, a nice opaque black that I could use to do a fine line drawing on glass, I want to do a drawing for a large piece for my bathroom.

I also have no idea how to fire it as far as temperatures. I have a programed Fusebox II, an Aim that I have never used with a pyrometer, and an EvenHeat fuse box, also new never used, (saving for PMC), with a dial controller.

I'm sure I can figure out the kilns, I just need some pointers in the right direction.

Thanks
Starr - just get some black enamel powder (compatible for the glass you are using) from Thompson enamels or one of the other vendors. Mix it with a medium to make a paint (like clove oil). You can then paint on your cold glass and refire it. I'll look up some specifics for you in a little while - I'm on my way out now.

However, if you don't intend to refire the glass after painting it I'm not sure how you could do that.
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  #21  
Old 2008-02-12, 1:19pm
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Hey guys,
Claudia Pagel answered my email! As promised, here it is:

<<hello nina, thank you very much for your compliment
for the gold ink I use this : http://www.misterart.com/store/view.cfm?
store=003&group_id=1903
I apply the gold paint (which is brown before annealing) with a pen
(first I clean the bead with alcohol), than you need to put your bead
in the kiln and ramp up slowly to 1100 F (during 3 hours). you hold
20 minutes and than you start the usual annealing programm. one thing
is very important : when you ramp up there must be enough oxygen in
the kiln, that's why you have to leave the kiln door slightly opened.
(you can close one time 1100 F are reached.)
I hope you understood, I don't speak English very well,
claudia>>
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  #22  
Old 2008-02-16, 4:02am
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Wow! That's so cool that she volunteered her firing schedule and everything!

Those beads are absolutely stunning. I'm going to have to look through my notes from Bronwen's class and find out what she uses as her liquid gold. I'm afraid I'm going to have to get some.

Everyone's examples are gorgeous. I love those dragonfly decals on those beads! Where does one find those again?

-Amy
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  #23  
Old 2008-02-16, 1:54pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_Phantom View Post
Wow! That's so cool that she volunteered her firing schedule and everything!

Those beads are absolutely stunning. I'm going to have to look through my notes from Bronwen's class and find out what she uses as her liquid gold. I'm afraid I'm going to have to get some.

Everyone's examples are gorgeous. I love those dragonfly decals on those beads! Where does one find those again?

-Amy

You can get the decals at:

http://www.delphiglass.com or
http://www.dichroicpatterns.com

I took a class with Kate Fowle and she said the decals are made of exactly the same gold as the gold that you paint on.

I just want to reiterate that if you use the decals or the gold paint to do some testing before settling on a firing schedule.

I soak my beads with the gold at 1180 degrees for half an hour (that's after a two hour ramp up). And, I use the low fire decals that have a temp range of 1100 to 1140. So my kiln might be slightly off. But that's why you have to test.

I have found that the gold decals soaked at a lower temperature will rub off with a little vigorous scrubbing with a pencil eraser.

But you need to test what works for you and the particular glass you are using.
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