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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #61  
Old 2010-11-15, 8:32pm
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ewschott ewschott is offline
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okay David, here's another one for everyone

I got a grill size propane tank (note I cannot afford a better torch and one that works with the oxygen thing), and I was amazed at this difference just in the size of the tank and the heat... but!

As I asked, people here say do not form your beads in the flame. But almost every youTube video I have watched, they form them in the flame?

Here's the really big question... ARE BEADS SUPPOSED TO BE ROUND? or more the doughnut shape? duh!
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  #62  
Old 2011-06-10, 4:12pm
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Awesome thread that has been buried in the sands of time.

BUMP
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  #63  
Old 2011-06-29, 4:42pm
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wow there is alot of great advice here that a newbie like me needs , Thanks I need to bump this up so I can find it easily again : )
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  #64  
Old 2011-06-29, 5:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewschott View Post
okay David, here's another one for everyone

I got a grill size propane tank (note I cannot afford a better torch and one that works with the oxygen thing), and I was amazed at this difference just in the size of the tank and the heat... but!

As I asked, people here say do not form your beads in the flame. But almost every youTube video I have watched, they form them in the flame?

Here's the really big question... ARE BEADS SUPPOSED TO BE ROUND? or more the doughnut shape? duh!
You can do both but you should aim for the round donut shape first. Once you get that, you do almost anything else, including rounds, tabs, tubes etc. etc.
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  #65  
Old 2011-06-29, 5:13pm
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are you saying the HH torch works better/hotter with a propane grill tank??



Quote:
Originally Posted by ewschott View Post
okay David, here's another one for everyone

I got a grill size propane tank (note I cannot afford a better torch and one that works with the oxygen thing), and I was amazed at this difference just in the size of the tank and the heat... but!

As I asked, people here say do not form your beads in the flame. But almost every youTube video I have watched, they form them in the flame?

Here's the really big question... ARE BEADS SUPPOSED TO BE ROUND? or more the doughnut shape? duh!
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  #66  
Old 2011-06-29, 5:31pm
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Well I went from the cannister to the bbq tank when I first started. Not sure if its hotter or not, but it sure does last a lot longer! And it doesn't freeze up half way through a torching session. You just need to make sure that you pipe it into your house correctly (see the safety section, there is a ton of info on how to do it right). Its actually quite a bit cheaper to run it this way also. I pay $19 for a full bbq tank (although I have switched to a cricket, I still need the propane lol).
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  #67  
Old 2011-06-29, 6:34pm
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Really research your glass and tool companies before you order. I have discovered google, the company, and the word review is an excellent way not to get stuff you can't use.
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  #68  
Old 2011-11-14, 6:24pm
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And there are lots of lampwork videos out there to watch. Check youtube for a bunch.
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  #69  
Old 2011-11-15, 12:33pm
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I've never seen this thread before, but what a great resource!!

A few tips that have worked for me (your mileage may vary)...

If there is something you absolutely suck at, such as florals or encasing, etc., set aside time in EACH and EVERY torch session to practice that skill. One of these days, it will click and you will have it!

If you tend to work hot, learning heat control is super important. I always found myself working super hot, close to the candles, and couldn't understand why I kept losing some of the detail on my beads (duh!). If you are an impatient type like me, focus on slowing down, working a bit farther back in the flame and really learning your heat control. Once you get that down, it's amazing what doors will open for you in your work.

And finally, challenge yourself to grow and learn glass each time you torch. Don't worry as much about finding a "signature bead" so you can sell tons or get famous. Don't worry about what others are doing. Just learn the glass and let it guide you.
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  #70  
Old 2011-11-22, 6:58pm
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Great thread! Thanks to those who have contributed to it over the years!
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  #71  
Old 2011-11-22, 7:38pm
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1. Have Fun.

2. Be very strict with yourself on all aspects of safety. Do not compromise. Keep a fire extinguisher at hand always.

3. Be as thrifty as you safely can at first until you are sure you want to really set up a studio as it IS expensive.

4. Be prepared for burns, serious ones, little ones. Have the treatments ready. This is not a fun helpful hint but it is one that needs to be addressed.

5. Be willing to invest time, patience, blood, sweat and tears in order to learn to create with glass.

I know it comes more easily to some than others but most always those who are doing great at beadmaking have invested a lot of time, money and effort in all areas of bead making, from shapeing, learning how to get the most from certain colors to the smallest details, add in knowledge of line, design, balance and experimenting and you have a true lampworker.

Good Luck to all newbies.
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  #72  
Old 2011-11-29, 8:45pm
Cherylka Cherylka is offline
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Just wanted to say THANKS! for the great tips.

I took a few classes 4 years ago, and set up my own torch 6 days ago, picture lots of wonky beads and a few semi decent ones. I read this thread and Slowed Down. Both in turning my mandrel, and in my heat. Wow, I could see the glass move, and actually predict what was going to happen. I finally got a round bead! And puckered ends! Very cool. And I repeated it!
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  #73  
Old 2011-11-29, 9:07pm
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Yea!!! Doesn't it feel great?
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  #74  
Old 2013-01-16, 9:20am
beadinthelightglass beadinthelightglass is offline
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Default Annealing...

This is my second post so I am not sure if I am doing this correct. I LOVE all of the tips, thank you. I have more confidence now knowing I can get excited if I only have 3 beads that look good out of the many I made. I am really confused about annealing times. I use a King Pin digital controlled kiln. The supplier told me 940 degrees was sufficient. However, when I bought my first supply of Lausha from flamedame.com there was a different annealing schedule that goes to 980 and a longer annealing time than I was doing. It also had a slower ramp down. Well, when I combine colors, especially silver glass, I mess the color up. My silver pink turned purple. So can someone please advice me on Proper Annealing and should I be mixing Lausha with other glass like Effetre?
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  #75  
Old 2013-01-19, 7:17pm
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I know this is an old thread, but my biggest advice for newbies is DON'T BURN YOUR GLASS & BE PATIENT!! I see so many beads that could have been gorgeous but they are all sooted up or they've been overcooked because people put them up close to the candles in the hope that doing that will heat the glass faster (or hotter). There are a few glasses that you can do it to (some of the silver glass) but in general, you are better off keeping your bead well away from the candles & use the part of the flame that is around 3 inches away from the face of the torch. You don't need to stick your glass right up near the candles for it to get hot & you certainly don't need the glass to be white hot & dripping off the mandrel to make a bead - work cooler & you will get a better result.

I need to thank Jac (GemsinBloom) for pointing that out to me, once I realised what I was doing wrong, my beads improved immensely!



Beadinginthelight, I can't help with annealing but Lauscha & Effetre/Moretti, Vetrofong & CIM should be OK together as they are all 104 COE.
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  #76  
Old 2013-07-30, 7:50pm
jconsidine11 jconsidine11 is offline
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Default Newbs advice

Bump!
Slow down...keep a limited palette to start.....look at the masters....have fun-

that is what it's all about!

Thank you to all have contributed and to Kalera for starting an awesome thread

Joan
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  #77  
Old 2013-08-06, 6:45am
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Wonderful information everyone! Thank you for helping this beginner to think about the process of working with the glass.
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  #78  
Old 2013-08-06, 6:54am
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Default Where do you shop for good beginner supplies?

I have looked at Dic Blick, Sundance Glass, Frantz. Probably going to go with a HotHead to start. I want to make beads and top knobs for my sewing baskets. Will soft glass do knobs if they are not too large?
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  #79  
Old 2013-08-06, 10:37pm
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If you're in a creative funk, take time off and don't even think about torching for a few days. Or weeks. I did this and when I came back I felt fresh. I realized during that time off that I didn't need to constantly be trying something new. I just made what I know and enjoyed it. In fact, I realized that I needed to fine-tune what I already do know. I also sort of put myself in my place. I had become a little overconfident, but had found that all of my experiments with glass were failing. I realized that I needed to focus on what I'm good at for now.

Slow down is also great advice. Slow down, take a step back and really look at what you are doing through each phase. You are not just blobbing a dot here and there, you need to place those dots and melt them in properly, etc.
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  #80  
Old 2018-01-24, 7:29am
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Bump
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  #81  
Old 2018-01-24, 8:23pm
nacho475 nacho475 is offline
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Default perfect timing!!

some helpful tips here. I am starting a class tomorrow night and tend to be impatient. It was already delayed a week due to weather. so patience and working slowly is going to be my new mantra. I primarily work in metal and when I screw up the most is when I am rushing.
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  #82  
Old 2020-05-14, 10:11am
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One more bump.
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  #83  
Old 2020-05-14, 1:58pm
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Thanks Eileen! I enjoyed rereading this.

Something I don't think has been mentioned...
Always put glass rods down on your bench with the hot end AWAY from you.
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  #84  
Old 2020-05-14, 8:12pm
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Very important!
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  #85  
Old 2020-05-15, 7:19am
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This is the best. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and bumped it up over the years!!!
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  #86  
Old 2020-05-30, 10:40am
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Great thread and great advice. only thing to beat all of this knowledge is experience and I look forward to that!
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