Encasing without losing reduction?

[piedradesigns]

I think I've seen this question here before, but I can't find the thread so sorry if this is a duplicate.

How can I encase a bead that has decoration that I've struck or reduced without losing the effects? If I keep the bead too far out of the flame, I'm afraid it will crack. But if it's too close all the reduction goes away.

Thanks for your help!
Gretchen

[squid]

Most reduction glass that I have used will not keep their reduction when encased.

[ellyloo]

What glass are you talking about?
For instance:

Raku: you strike (lots of people call it reduction, but it's really a heat/cool thing)
--raku will change through it 's colours if it gets glowing again, so when encasing it, you need to watch that the flame isn't making the raku glowing again while you put the clear on. It's tricky.

Reds and other 'striking' colours.... once you get them struck right, you'd have to make them pretty hot again (Like...clear) before they'll lose it.

The Reducing ones... the ones that turn metallic in a reduction flame:
I don't believe they stay that way under encasing.
BUT:
Double helix's Psyche and Terra (the original, but i havne't tried any others) DO stay metallic under encasing. It may be that others do too, but i haven't tried them all.
It's pretty neat!

[Twisted Glass]

not shure never did many beads but I hear slumpers are nice to encase objects never seen one nor used one just sayin I heard lol. Just stay away and every so often hit he piece with some heat but like he said dont make it glow again

[chayes]

I've been having somewhat good luck with the precision 104 colors. I get the metals to come to the surface turn up the oxy and start placing clear dots on the bead only heating the clear. Reheat the bead and melt in the clear. Some of the silver colors burn out(can't remember exactly which ones) and the reduction dissapears but a few colors the reduction will stay. With multiple reheatings the glass under the clear gets deeper blues mostly. Then i reduce the unencased silver color. i like way the encased and unencased color look together. I'm no expert with 104 glass but it seems like it can be done.

[piedradesigns]

Sounds nice, Chris. I'll experiment with this.

Ellyloo, when i say striking glass I'm thinking of the silver glasses: Khaos, Terra, Terranova 2, etc. Seems like I burn out the most interesting colors before I can finish encasing.

Gretchen

[squid]

That is different then - those are striking glasses not reduction colors. You should encase first and then strike.

[gubnavnania]

This one DH Psyche. I put clear dot after reducing.

[Kevan]

Raku, Van Gogh, Terra Nova these are not reduction glasses they are striking glasses.

It depends on which reduction glass you use. Some will retain a metallic sheen under the encasing and some will not. Triton will and so will Black Pearl. Some of the lusters will also.

This is Triton




These are a super luster glass from DH called Ivory Luster This looks like MOP.




The trick is that you reduce it and encase it in a slight reduction flame so you don't "erase" the metallic finish.

[piedradesigns]

Thanks, Kevan. I'll try that.
Have you tried encasing the DH striking colors, such as TN2?
Gretchen
(Gorgeous beads btw.)

[Carolyn M]

I encase reduction glass all the time. You keep the bead out of the flame when encasing and re-reduce if necessary. The best reduction glass colours for encasing are Triton, SL193, Psyche and some odd lots of Terra that I reduce rather than strike. The final picture is original Terra (striking glass) encased. It was struck after encasing











Sorry just realised what a picture hog I am!

[piedradesigns]

Thank you, Carolyn! Lots to try here.
Maybe I've been a bit too timid about holding the reduced bead a little farther outside of the flame.
I've never had any luck striking after encasing, but I notice your Terra beads have fairly thin encasing.
Now if we just had some more Terra...

Gretchen

[Hayley]

Another tip - if you want to encase striking silver glass such as Luna 2 and Terranova 2, don't overstrike it before encasing. I put the clear on when the silver glass is dark brown/purple. Then strike again after the clear goes on.

[Firebrand Beads]

Most of the reducing TAG colors can be encased after reduction. The reduction can go more opaque this way, however. It is hard to encase the metallic sheen and keep it very metallic with most of the TAG colors. Here is an example of an encased reduction: this is TAG clear over reduced Juno.
Here is an example of encasement over reduced TAG greens:

The bubbles are strictly operator error, lol!

[AKDesigns]

I usually don't have an issue as long as I don't over heat the bead. However Gaia is a problem child and I've given up trying to keep the reduction on it even when I just top a little dot with clear and gently heat it. It's kinda a 50/50 thing. Half the time is stays reduced and the other half I get a transparent green glass topped with clear.

[neagle]

How about if you fume a bead with silver and reduce--I've had problems keeping the silvery look or colors that happen if I encase.

[Jayne]

And you can get different colors of lustre depending on how you work the silvered glass in the flame, plus what you use to encase it with...

[piedradesigns]

Terrific advice & gorgeous beads, everyone!
Thanks so much!

Gretchen

[Carolyn M]

OK Jayne what the heck did you use to get the red???

[nagibeads]

Originally Posted by Jayne

And you can get different colors of lustre depending on how you work the silvered glass in the flame, plus what you use to encase it with...

WOW--just WOWIE WOW WOW!!!

[C-Ann]

More tips to put with my silver glass notes and not to mention more beads to drool over....

[Jayne]

Thanks, Nagi!

Heck if I can remember, Carolyn; I made it a year & a half ago, and my brain is like a sieve.
I may have used straw yellow or light amber maybe to encase it? I do remember though doing a happy dance when it came out of the kiln The bead is actually a bronze color, but those lustres can be so hard to photograph!

[neagle]

Thanks so much, Kimberly! I appreciate the tip-I'm psyched now that I know I can get it to work if I ppp!!

[jaci]

HI all! This id a great topic! I encase a lot of silver glass. Being that I am on a HH torch, I find that using stringer is easier to control my encasement. I also have options on controlling the encasement to make it streaky looking (i'll fin a pic).
TIP: if you encase by starting at one end and realize that you are loosing your reduction on the unencased part you can stop encasing and flash into a reduction flame again and continue to encase it.
I encase terra after i strike it. That way I get max heat on it, but careful not to get a reduction this way. (i love to bubble spot encase i, and make encased stringers of it.)

these are psyche:


and

this was reduced, spot encased melted in (SLOWLY is key) and then fully encased.

[ellyloo]

Whooo baby!
I love learning this stuff!!

[piedradesigns]

Thanks to everyone! Super inspiring & informative!!!!

Gretchen

www.piedradesigns.etsy.com

[chrissy]

Originally Posted by Jayne

And you can get different colors of lustre depending on how you work the silvered glass in the flame, plus what you use to encase it with...

Jayne,

DO you mind me askign if you can remember the color of your greenish bead. I am totally in LOVE with that sheen!!!

Thanks

[Troll Lover]

Triton, Psyche and Black Pearl are the most pretty shiny glass under encasement. I use them all the time for my crunchies. But it's so hard to capture the high shine in a pic!

Black Pearl:


Triton


Psyche:


I reduce and then encase under the flame. Slowly reheat and melt in the encasement.

[Jayne]

Thanks, Christina

The green is Black Nebula encased in clear. I haven't quite figured out how to consistently get the green though. It seems that it really wants to be blue, and the green is an infrequent nice surprise. I've also had it go dark teal, which is also very pretty.